Inverness is the Highland capital; a small but mighty city where the River Ness meets the Moray Firth and culture and history bump up against the beauty of Scotland’s stunning scenery.
This is a city surrounded by some of the country’s finest lochs and glens, but there’s also a lot to explore in Inverness itself. Whether you’re taking part in marathon weekend, the Etape or cheering someone on, there’s indy bookshops, coffee spots and wild places waiting to welcome you.
Start with a parkrun
Join the 5k parkrun in the greenery of Torvean Park, a 15-minute walk from the city centre. This parkrun is rare in that it takes place on a purpose-built circuit, made from loose gravel. The route is mostly flat, and it has its very own Heartbreak Hill - typically short and steep. There are also parkruns at Nairn, Belladrum, Alness and Aviemore, all within half an hour.
Or walk through the Ness Islands
Tucked away in the middle of the River Ness, this natural collection of islands is an idyllic hideaway, in touching reach of the city. There are carved benches, surrounded Scots pine, fir, beech and sycamore forest, suspension footbridges to cross and fishermen busy in the river.
Let loose and indulge
Running is fun… but so is eating. The Victorian Market is home to a host of indy favourites. Try the caramel brownies from the Bad Girl Bakery, locally-sourced seafood from The Redshank or vegan street food from Salt N Fire. Out in the city, the cinnamon buns from XOKO Bakehouse are a must. XOKO is next door to Cocoa Bothy, the place to go for handmade chocolate, and once you’ve got your fix, you’re not far from Perk - perfect for a barista coffee pickup and a handmade doughnut. And did we mention the cafe turns into an espresso martini bar at night?
Learn the Highland History
Just outside of Inverness, the impressive Culloden Visitor Centre tells the story of the 1745 Jacobite Uprising, on the site where it came to a tragic end. Fort George was built after Culloden, as a base for the British army. It’s a fascinating example of 18th-century engineering. Walk the ramparts and you might see dolphins playing off Chanonry Point, in the Moray Firth.
Back in the city, visit the newly-opened Inverness Castle Experience and a seanchaidh (storyteller) will guide you through the red sandstone building, unveiling legends and stories.
Go full bookworm
Lose yourself in Leakey’s Bookshop, Scotland’s largest secondhand bookshop. It’s a family-run institution; just shy of 50 years old. Everything inside this sprawling two-floor haven is pre-loved. You’ll find antiquarian offerings, vintage maps, classic literature and so much more.
Grab a local pint and a pizza
No visit to Inverness is complete without a pizza and a pint at the Black Isle Brewery. This is the premium craft beer bar in the city, with 26 taps pouring all the best local brews. Their wood-fired pizzas make a delightful accompaniment. Elsewhere, The Wee Bar is a cosy nook for whisky lovers, while wine and cheese enthusiasts should head to Walrus & Corkscrew.
Take a Highland Coo Tour
Who doesn’t love a Highland Coo? Big, fuzzy and orange, these brilliant beasts adorn the Scottish bucket list of many a visitor. If you’re keen to get close to a coo, join a small-group visit to a working croft (a small farm) above Drumandrochit, and you can hand-feed the herd. The experiences are led by a family which has had their croft for eight generations.
Go find Nessie
Loch Ness itself is less than a half hour drive from Inverness. Head to Drumnadrochit if you want to do a bit of monster-spotting, whether on a cruise of the loch or a tour of the Loch Ness Experience - a new, immersive, multimedia experience which delves into the legends.
The ruins of Urquhart Castle are also worth a look here. Once a major Highland stronghold, it was fought over repeatedly during the Scottish Wars of Independence. If you’re still in Drumnadrochit come dinner time, nip into the Fiddler’s Highland Restaurant for a feast.
Stuart Kenny is an award-winning active travel and adventure writer. His work primarily focuses on the outdoors and wildlife around Scotland and beyond.